Made In Britain; Final Line Up

Whilst researching into portfolio idea's I saw a lot of animal heads on human body's as fashion illustrations, I really liked this idea & thought I'd create my own/ something similar, I traced a model body and glued a deer head to it then by scanning it in I could print as many copies as I needed ensuring they are all the same size & proportion, I used a deer head as it is very strong and masculine looking as well as having a vintage feel about it. All of my design's are based around a blue colour theme as that is what I've picked for my colour story. I also want to include quilting within my suit therefore quite a few of my designs incorporate quilting.

Contrasting fabrics with knee and sleeve detailing, slightly lighter shade of blue fabric, bamboo velvet and natural fibres. 

Almost tracksuit looking outfit, with quilted velvet detailing on elbows,waist &knee. Zip fastening to add a modern feel to the garments.

Trouser idea, tonal fabrics for pockets and lower leg area.

Modern aviator style coat, with faux fur detail. Zips once again used to add a modern detail.

Two tone trousers, front and back in different fabrics (one being velvet).

Trouser idea, fitted with knee detailing in contrasting fabric.

Floor length coat inspired by vintage aviator coat with faux fur trimmings and contrasting pockets.

Quilted two piece, quilting used to reinforce strength and durability. 

Knee length oversized coat with dropped shoulders, faux fur collar inspired by vintage aviator jackets.

Faux fur and quilted details with side fastenings.

Off centre fastening oversized suit, with contrasting trousers. Side panel details of separate fabric.

Ankle length side fastening coat with dropped shoulders. Many buttons with a hidden zip fastening for practicability rather than fastening multiply buttons. 

Final Line Up All Together;

Final Line Up Reflected;

Subtraction Dress

For the subtraction cutting I had created a fabric from the under the microscope brief which has been digitally printed onto three meters of fabric.

I then bought another three meters of fabric which complimented my hand designed one in terms of colours and shades. I chose a natural metallic champagne shade.

I then created a tube like piece of the two fabrics leaving one end open. 

(sewn right side to right side &turned inside out)

Next I overlocked each seam and pressed it towards the back.

I then took a front and back bodice piece and placed it on the fabric. As I wanted the printed fabric to be most visible I l placed the bodice pieces on the print, this meaning the print will be at the top of the garment rather than the plain fabric.

I placed the bodice pieces slightly diagonally then join the waist's with tailors chalk. I then cut the extra fabric out carefully ensuring to only cut through the one layer of fabric, (this being the printed one).

Fabric piece that I have subtracted.

I then sewed the side seams together and overlocked them. Subtraction dress before any holes removed.

Back of dress before any holes removed. Before subtracting holes, I used the additional printed fabric to create bias binding to bind my neckline and arm holes, this is to allow a high quality finish to the subtraction dress.

Once the neckline and arm holes were bound I could begin to subtract holes from the dress. I began with a 100cm circle and placed this on the plain fabric.

I then flipped this circle and used tailors chalk to draw round it. Leaving me with a pair of circles.

I then cut out the pair of circles, cutting through one layer only (plain fabric) I then stitched the circles together and overlocked the seam. Overall I used three pairs of circles in this subtraction dress. Two low for length and one high around the busy area. Six circles in total.

Overall I'm extremely happy with the final dress, I think the fabric's work well together and I love the final outcome of where the circles were placed. I plan to make more subtraction dresses in the future.

Made in Britain: Eight to Ten Sketch Designs

To develop my eight/ten final designs (to show Chris Lee when he's comes to select his chosen design), I looked through my sketchbook. I have scanned my favourite designs in to then print and develop further for my final line up, before selecting the final eight/ten. 

I also have a few pencil sketches.

1 - Middle jacket on left page.

2 - Jacket & Trousers on left.

3 - Long coat on right.

4 - Full suit on left.

5 - Ankle length coat on right.

6- Centre brown & green jacket.

7 - Full suit on right.

8 - Full suit on right.

9 - Coat and matching trousers on far left.

Made In Britain; Jacket Deconstruction

Initial image of jacket before any changes.

Second jacket before any changes.

Lining of pocket detail.

Inside of jacket with lining removed.

Shoulder detail after lining was removed.

Back of jacket with lining removed.

Layers of facing and wodding on shoulders.

Second jacket with facings removed.

Neckline/collar detail in jacket.

Lining when removed.

First change: - Repinned the pockets inside out. - Changed collar&button locations.

First change: neckline detail.

Second change: - Contrasting sleeve.

Contrasting front jacket created from two.

Change three: Adding collar detail from longing fabric and relocating pockets.

Change four: Using the shoulder padding a to create a new neckline and elbow patches.

Fifth change: adding length to the jacket.

Adding contrasting pocket and collar details.

Turning up the hem fabric allowed a two tone look which I'd like to use in my final garment.

As I am planning to create a full length jacket I wanted to recreate this old jacket into a long almost mac shape.

Another collar detail idea.

Centre back satin detail just to add something a little different to a everyday jacket.

Contrasting under arm detail (could use a breathable fabric).

Sleeve detail of contrasting fabrics.

By de-constructing an already made jacket I have learnt how high of a standard I need my menswear two piece to be. Men don't usually buy 'throwaway fashion' as women do, they tend to buy less but aim for quality over quantity meaning the jacket can not be of a poor quality. As I am focusing on aviation I plan to use knee and elbow pad details, quilting and thicker fabrics to cater for my market. As well as the pocket location and lenght details.